A visit to Apoala is akin to stopping at a Hobbit village in Middle Earth — it gives the sense of being a world apart. Physically isolated in a deep valley, the small village of about 200 Mixtec Indians gets by with minimal contact with the larger world. Blessed with an abundant supply of spring water, the small farms that dot the valley produce several crops in a year’s time, supplying the villagers with most of what they need to survive. The chief industry is weaving straw into hats, baskets and animal figures. Locals measure time and distance accordingly: “How far is it to the next village?” “About three hats.”
The principal attraction for tourists is the series of cascadas formed by the spring water as it plunges over a cliff on its way to join the Papaloapam River. The waterfalls are quite literally on the edge of town. Getting to them requires hiking down a very steep and demanding path, where steps are cut into the stone hillside. The climb is easily worth the effort, though, as the cascadas are strikingly beautiful. Hikers will also want to explore the narrow canyon on the north edge of the valley, which requires a lot of rock hopping through the creek that meanders through. Finally, there are two major caves in the valley that may be a lure to some folks.
If you are going to Apoala, plan on a relaxed adventure, with plenty of time to wander, commune with nature, read a book or just chill out. Because of its altitude (6460 feet) and topography, Apoala is usually pretty cool. Visitors are well advised to bring several layers of clothing, including jackets, hats and gloves. The unheated tourist cabins are well constructed but simple – most rooms sleep four persons on a pair of twin bunk beds and have a pleasant bathroom. Meals are prepared either at the kitchen in the camp or at the tourism office in town. As of 2020 there are also a couple of small restaurants in Apoala.
Time frame: SATURDAY 8:30 depart Llano Park / 1:00 arrive Apoala / 1:30 lunch / 3:30 visit cascadas / 7:00 dinner // SUNDAY 7:30 morning hike / 9:00 breakfast / 11:30 leave Apoala / 2:00 lunch in Nochixtlan / 5:oo return Lending Library
