CUILAPAM The name of the city can be spelled with either an “m” or an “n” as the final letter because of a difference in the Nahuatl suffix, with -pam meaning “valley of” and -pan meaning “place of”. Both spellings can be seen on signs and maps and both are considered correct. The present village was established by 500 BCE. Cuilapan developed as an independent city state until the rise of Monte Albán. At the height of its power, Cuilapan had a number of its own subject settlements, which included Camotlán, Etla, Huitzo, Guaxaca, Macuilcóchitl, Tlacochahuaya, San Sebastian Teítipac and Ocotlán. After the decline of Monte Alban about 850 AD, Cuilapan returned to being an independent city-state but never regained the power and status of its earlier golden age.
At the time of the Spanish conquest Cuilapan was a large multi-ethnic population center of 43,000 people and one of the centers of the political, economic and cultural life of the central valleys of Oaxaca. The decline of Cuilapam began in the 16th century, when the population fell from 43,000 in the 1520s to 7,000 in 1600, most likely due to recurring epidemics of smallpox, measles and enteric fever, diseases introduced to the area by the Spanish.
Construction of the massive basilica and monastery in Cuilapam, begun in 1556, was halted by the 1570s, and the site was abandoned in the 1590’s. For 300 years the ruins sat idle. In 1907 a new roof was installed over the central church and the building has been used as a parish church since then. In more recent times the National Institute of Archeology and History has used the upper floor of the cloister to house artifacts which are brought from various archeological sites to be cleaned, catalogued and stored. The town and neighboring state were named after Vicente Guerrero, one of the great heroes of the first years of the War for Independence from Spain. Guerrero was a comrade of José Maria Morelos de Pavon, successor to Miguel Hidalgo as leader of the fight for independence. Morelos was the author of Mexico’s first Constitution. Guerrero served briefly as Mexico’s second president before being deposed in a military coup by his vice-president, Anastasio Bustamante. In his short term Guererro abolished slavery and the caste system in Mexico and promoted public education and citizenship for all, regardless of race or social standing. He took part in many military skirmishes before being betrayed and captured in Huatulco in late 1530. He was tried in Oaxaca and executed by firing squad at the monastery in Cuilapam on 14 February 1531.
ZAACHILA Zaachila is named after Zaachila Yoo, the Zapotec ruler who lived in the late 14th and early 15th century. The town is unusual in that its street names are in Zapotec rather than Spanish. Thursday is market day in Zaachila. In addition to the usual market in the center of town, Zaachila also has a weekly animal auction where oxen, donkeys, sheep, goats and pigs are bought and sold. Zaachils is also famous for its stilt dancers – called zancudos (mosquitos) – who perform on special occasions and during the annual Guelaguetza festival each July. After the decline of Monte Alban, Zaachila became the political capital of the Zapotec empire, while Mitla became the religious center. King Cosijoeza and his son, Cosijopii, were ruling when the Spanish arrived in the Valley of Oaxaca in about 1523. At the time both were revered by their people for having held off the encroaching Aztecs, who mounted several unsuccessful military campaigns to gain control of the trade routes to Guatemala and Belize. One of Cosijoeza’s daughters, Donaji, is the subject of a favorite local legend. The reputations of both leaders was later greatly diminished because they welcomed the Spanish, were baptized, and adopted Spanish names, dress and customs. In subsequent times they were looked upon as traitors to their people. Zaachila has an archaeological site just off the main square. Most of the site has yet to be excavated. However the tomb of Lord Nine Flower was discovered in 1964 and is one of the best examples to be found in the region. Artifacts from the tomb are on display at the national museum of archeology in Mexico City.
Time frame: 8:30 depart Llano Park / 9:15 arrive Cuilapam – visit monastery ruins / 9:45 begin hike / 11:30 end hike at mercado gastronomico for lunch / 12:30 end lunch / 1:15 return to Oaxaca