Guacamaya is a small community in a mountain setting 23 miles (37 km) north of Oaxaca City. Perched precariously on the side of a mountain in a luxuriant valley, the village is dependent on visitors who come to the area to see the waterfall, hike or bike in the surrounding forest, and feast on the fresh trout which are raised in local ponds. The mountain slopes are precipitous, but old logging roads generally follow the contour of the hills and so are friendly to both hikers and mountain bikers. There is an observation tower atop El Portillo, 3.6 miles (5.8 km) up the road beyond the town, which offers a panoramic view when not shrouded in fog. It is a .6 mile (.96 km) walk one way from the town to the cascada on a path that descends 325 feet (99 meters). Villagers charge 10 pesos to visit the waterfall. There are a couple of restaurants in town and at the nearby ecotourism camp that serve fresh-caught trout, which can be ordered pan fried, grilled or baked in aluminum foil with an assortment of vegetables and spices, for about 150 pesos per dinner. Local families will also invite visitors to their homes for the same gastronomical treat.
Guacamaya sits at an altitude of 8963 feet (2732 meters), and the mirador at El Portillo tops out at 10,349 feet (3154 meters). As the area receives moisture that sweeps over the mountains from the Gulf of Mexico, visitors should be prepared for both notably cooler and possibly wetter conditions than prevail in Oaxaca city. It can be quite windy at times, as well. Jackets, gloves, hats or scarves and rain gear are recommended – just in case!
The “Hoofing It In Oaxaca” excursion to Guacamaya actually has five hike components. While many participants will want to hike several segments, it is possible to do just one, two or three parts of the whole package. Hikers are free to mix & match the sections to suit their interests and abilities.
Section One: Observation Tower The observation tower atop El Portillo affords a panoramic view of the surrounding countryside (at least when it is not shrouded in fog). The tower can be reached either on an out & back trail that runs .33 miles each way, with an elevation gain and loss of 335 feet (102 meters) or by means of a loop trail which covers 1.42 miles (2.3 kms), ascending and descending 520 feet (158.5 kms) along the way. This segment is rated moderate.
Section Two: Logging Roads There is a network of logging roads in the forests around Guacamaya which connect with several small villages in the mountains. Those who want a good hike can do an out & back walk along one of these roads before heading back to town for a trout dinner. This hike segment adds 2 to 4 miles to the day’s excursion, and has an elevation loss and gain of about 250 feet. It is an easy walk along these wide roads.
Section Three: Hiking trail to Guacamaya In the summer of 2019 a new mountain biking trail was constructed through the woods which offers an alternate route down the mountainside to Guacamaya. This trail runs 2.0 miles (3.2 kms) and is steep in places, dropping 880 feet (268 meters) enroute. This trail is rated difficult on account of steepness and obstacles.
Section Four: Road to Guacamaya From the point where we park the vans for participants to hike sections one thru three, above, it is an easy downhill walk of 3.2 miles back to Guacamaya on the main road. The elevation drop is the same as on the hiking trail, above, but the gradient is much less steep and so the hiking is easier on the knees.
Section Five: Visit to the Cascada The out & back trek from town to the cascada runs 8/10ths of a mile, with the trail dropping 325 feet along the way. This hike option is rated easy to moderate.
Time frame: 8:30 depart Llano Park / 10:00 arrive in Guacamaya / 10:30 arrive El Portillo trailhead / 11:30 visit observation tower or hike on logging road / 12:30 begin walk to Guacamaya / 1:30 visit cascada / 2:00 lunch at restaurant / 3:30 leave Guacamaya / 4:45 return Oaxaca.
